Updated: Feb 10, 2020
"I never understood why microblading schools teach only one eyebrow shape"
One size does not fit all. Different faces require different shape brows and not all clients like the same brow shape. Some clients will come to you with their own brow preference and some will need your expertise to figure out the best brow for their face.
So, how do we know which eyebrow shape is best for which face?
There are no hard and fast rules. Every face is individual and the brows we give them should be too.
The goal when either creating or enhancing brows is to have them compliment the face we are creating them for.
Too often I see artists create beautifully shaped brows only to find they don't fit the face they're on. For example, I often see brows that are beautiful on their own but too young and out of place for the mature face they're on.
Taking in the shape of the face and creating balance is always the end goal.
In deciding which brow is right for our client's face we must first consider the age.
A thick, dark brow may be beautiful on the younger woman (although not all) but not be the right look on an older woman.
Could the face you're looking at use some softening, as in a lighter or softer brow, or could it benefit from a stronger brow?
The shape of the face is another thing to consider.
Is the face you're looking at too long? Too short? Too angular? Just right?
In order to bring balance to a round face we want to bring in angles where there are none. A high arched brow will give the illusion of elongating the face and will bring a nice contrast to the baby face this face shape usually produces.
A long face will do best with a low arched brow or a straight brow to cut the view of the face at the brow. The idea is to give the illusion of a shorter face. I also like to give this shape face a bit of a shorter brow to give the illusion of a wider face, but just a little bit. You don't want it to be obvious.
A heart shaped face has a lot of angles to it's best not to add any more. This shape face always has a strong chin and in order to balance this, very soft arches are best. A low arched brow or a low round brow is best.
A square shaped face also has a lot of angles, so I like to keep the brow shape soft and round to add soft round curves where there are none.
Both the diamond and the oval face can take, pretty much any shape, but we still have to take the individual face into consideration. The age and the overall look of the client.
Pear shaped faces are not very common but when I have one, I try to make the brows longer than I
would on any other shape, and I will, also make them slightly bolder in order to keep the attention on the face evenly distributed between the full bottom half of the face and the brows.
Any shape face can be short or long.
For example, the square face can be short or long. When it's long it's called a rectangle. Once a face becomes long, we want to soften the arch in order not to draw attention to the length.
An oval face can become a long oval and will need to be balanced with a soft arched brow or a straight brow.
All these distinctions need to be taken into consideration when deciding on a brow shape.
This is why one brow shape will never work for everyone.
The next thing we have to determine is where to start the brow
If a client has close-set eyes, begin the brows (point #1 & #4) at the tear ducts.
If a client has far-set eyes or a very youthful face, we may choose to start the brows at the inner nostril.
These are all the reasons why drawing the brows free hand is a favorite method of designing brows by seasoned microblading artists. Follow the natural shape of the client's brows as much as possible while making any necessary adjustments.
Once you're done drawing the brows, take out your digital caliper, check the measurements on both sides to make sure they are the same and you're ready to microblade.