Updated: Feb 10, 2020
One of the 4 most important topics in microblading is depth.
(the other 3 are choosing the right shape brow, the right color pigments and proper healing practices.)
Go too shallow and your strokes will disappear. Go too deep and not only will your beautiful golden brown strokes turn grey after healing, but they will widen and blur.
You can see why the correct depth is super important in producing beautiful microbladed brows that wear and fade beautifully.
Every client's skin is different
Every client's skin is different and comes in 3 thicknesses, thin, regular, and thick. Knowing the skin and microblading to the tolerance level of that part of the skin will help you microblade without overworking the skin giving you better results.
A headlamp and some magnifying glasses while working is a must no matter how good your eyesight. It's the only way to get a really deep understanding of what happens to the skin when you microblade it.
While microblading it is necessary to look very carefully in order to assess whether you are at the correct depth.
A sign that you've hit the proper depth (what is known as 'the sweet spot') is when you see a fine channel or split in the skin, oftentimes marked by pinpoint bleeding. But, be warned that not all skin types behave the same. Some are bleeders and some won't bleed at all.
The dangers with bleeders are that the excess blood will dilute the pigment so much that it won't be visible when healed, and the dangers of skin that doesn't bleed is that the inexperienced microblade artist will go too deep thinking, wrongly, that no blood means you haven't gone deep enough.
Sometimes that will be true and sometimes it won't. How do you know the difference?
Besides listening and feeling for the sweet spot, only experience will teach you about the different skin types and their behaviors. Some things can't be rushed.
Don't apply too much pressure
Don't apply too much pressure. As long as the skin is stretched nice and tight and you're holding your blade straight, apply only as much pressure as if you would if you were cutting tissue paper if working on thin skin, a grape skin if working on normal skin, and an apple skin if working on thick skin. Lay your blade on the skin without moving it or applying any pressure, is your blade straight up? Is your wrist relaxed?
Go slow while gliding the blade into a graceful stroke.
When you microblade, pay close attention to how the skin is behaving. How thick or thin is it? Notice how the skin is thicker at the bulb and thinner at the end. Thicker on top of the brows than under the brows. You're going to have to adjust your pressure so that it is evenly distributed from beginning to end. That's going to take practice.
A friend of mine bought some pigskin from his butcher and practices on it every day (he refrigerates it). Pigskin is supposed to be the closest to our own. I don't know if pigs have different thicknesses of skin. I'm not a pig expert, so maybe.
Whatever you choose to practice on, the keyword here is practice. It's the only way to become the expert you want to become. The more people and practice you have, the better you will be. The more intimate you will become with the procedure. The more you will make it yours.
A word of caution: Stay away from ruddy complexions until you are very comfortable with your microblading skills. Thick or thin, ruddy skin presents all kinds of challenges. Ruddy skin tends to bleed the most and is the most sensitive of all the skin types.
In order to prevent any beginner's calamities, stay to the safe and easy clients like the one in the picture above that doesn't need a whole lot of work.
If you are a beginner stay clear of these difficult scenarios until you are more advanced:
Clients with alopecia (completely devoid of brows)
Natural redheads (they have very sensitive skin and are usually bleeders)
Clients with old tattoos on the brows
Clients with thick oily skin
Clients wanting to change the shape of their brows
Clients with ruddy complexions
Microblading looks easier than it is. Getting the proper training is, like in all beauty services, of the utmost importance. We will always only be as good as the training we've received.
That's why getting the best training should always be the first order of anything new we do.
And to really excel in your chosen profession, always continue to learn. Keep taking courses and reading blogs.
Microbladers! Microblading Beauty Academy is a unique online school with the most comprehensive and top quality courses. If you would like to be informed as to when their online microblading courses are released and get discount coupon for the course, go here and subscribe: MicrobladingBeautyAcademy.com